Bathroom Remodel checklist

Measure the room and record every existing fixture location

Confirm the toilet centerline is at least 15 inches from any wall

Codes generally require 15 inches from the centerline of the toilet to a side wall, vanity or other fixture.

Allow at least 21 inches of clear floor space in front of the toilet

Measure from the front edge of the bowl to the wall, door or vanity opposite it.

Set the shower size and check the door swing

A shower is commonly at least 30 by 30 inches inside, and the door must not strike the toilet or the vanity.

Choose the vanity, toilet, tub and shower valve before rough-in

Rough-in dimensions differ between models, so the plumber needs the actual specification sheets.

Decide on a curbed or curbless shower entry

A curbless shower needs the floor framing recessed, which has to be planned before demolition finishes.

Plan storage, towel bar and toilet paper holder positions before the walls close

Agree the written scope, allowances and schedule with the contractor

Confirm whether the work needs plumbing, electrical or building permits

Check whether moving a toilet or a drain triggers extra review

Relocating a drain often means opening the floor structure, which is reviewed differently from a fixture swap.

Get building or association approval for any work on shared risers

Confirm the contractor license and insurance are current

Book the rough-in and final inspections into the schedule

Shut off and cap the water supply to the bathroom

Test for asbestos and lead before removing old tile, flooring or paint

Protect the route from the bathroom door to the exit

Remove fixtures, tile and old waterproofing down to the framing

Inspect the subfloor and framing for water damage and rot

Leaks around tubs and toilets usually only show when the finishes come off, so allow time for repair.

Confirm the joist direction before planning any new drain run

Drains cannot cut across joists freely, and this often decides where a fixture can actually go.

Remove all debris and keep the open floor dry

Set the toilet flange position from the fixture rough-in dimension

Most toilets rough in at 12 inches from the finished wall, but 10 inch and 14 inch models exist.

Set the shower valve height

A shower only valve is commonly roughed in 42 to 48 inches above the finished floor, and a tub and shower valve lower at 28 to 32 inches.

Set the shower arm height

A shower arm is commonly 78 inches above the finished floor, and higher where the users are tall.

Pre-slope the shower pan toward the drain

A fall of about one quarter inch per foot moves water to the drain underneath the waterproofing.

Install the tub or shower base and support it as the manufacturer requires

Vent every trap and confirm the vent sizes

Rough in the vanity supply and drain to suit the chosen vanity

Pressure test the supply lines and fill test the drains

Do both before anything is closed, and record the result on this item.

Book and pass the plumbing rough-in inspection

Provide GFCI protection for every bathroom receptacle

Run a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the bathroom receptacles

Size the exhaust fan to the room

A common rule is 1 CFM per square foot of floor area with a minimum of 50 CFM, and about 50 CFM per fixture in a larger bathroom.

Duct the fan to the outside, never into the attic

Use rigid or insulated duct on the shortest run possible, with an exterior damper so moist air leaves the building.

Keep switches and receptacles out of the shower zone

Check the local clearance rule for devices near a tub or shower opening before boxes are set.

Plan lighting at the mirror as well as on the ceiling

Lights on both sides of the mirror at about eye height remove the shadows a ceiling light creates.

Rough in heated floor wiring and the thermostat sensor if one is used

Add blocking for grab bars even if they are installed later

Blocking costs almost nothing during framing and cannot be added once the wall is tiled.

Book and pass the electrical rough-in inspection

Install cement board or a waterproof backer board in all wet areas

Apply the waterproofing as one continuous system

Follow a single manufacturer system for the pan, walls, corners and drain rather than mixing products.

Seal every corner, seam and pipe penetration

Set the shower niche between studs at a usable height

Keep the niche off the shower head wall, commonly 48 to 60 inches above the floor.

Waterproof the niche and any bench, including the top surface

Slope the niche shelf and the bench slightly toward the shower so water drains off them.

Flood test the shower pan for 24 hours before tiling

Plug the drain, fill the pan, mark the water line, and check the level and the ceiling below the next day.

Extend the waterproofing behind the tub surround to the required height

Photograph the finished waterproofing on every wall before tiling

Check the substrate is flat before tiling

Large format tile needs a flatter surface than small tile, so correct high and low spots first.

Set out the tile layout and dry lay the pattern

Plan the cuts so full tiles land at eye level and no narrow sliver falls in a visible corner.

Confirm the slope to the drain still holds after the tile is set

Use the specified trowel and back butter large tiles

Full coverage under the tile prevents hollow spots that crack later in a wet area.

Grout, then seal the grout or stone where the manufacturer requires it

Use flexible sealant at every change of plane

Corners and the joint between wall and floor move, so they take sealant rather than grout.

Paint with a finish suited to a wet room and allow the full cure time

Install the shower door only after the tile has cured

Install the toilet on a new seal and check that it does not rock

Install the vanity level and fix it to the wall

Fit the vanity top, sink and faucet and seal at the wall

Mount accessories into blocking, not into tile alone

Towel bars and grab bars pulled out of tile take the tile with them.

Install the mirror, lighting and any medicine cabinet

Fit the shower trim, valve handle and shower head

Run water at every fixture and check under the vanity and around the toilet

Test the exhaust fan airflow

Hold a single sheet of tissue against the grille; it should stay in place while the fan runs.

Run the shower for 10 minutes and check the drain and the ceiling below

A slow leak shows up on the ceiling of the room underneath before it shows anywhere else.

Check that hot and cold are on the correct sides at every fixture

Test the GFCI, every switch and the fan timer

Check for gaps in the sealant at the tub, shower base and countertop

Confirm the door clears the finished floor and closes cleanly

Confirm all inspections passed and collect the final sign off

Collect warranties, spare tile, and the paint and grout color names

Agree completion dates for the punch list items before the final payment