Kitchen Renovation checklist

Measure the existing kitchen and record every dimension

Record wall lengths, window and door positions, ceiling height, and the location of any structural column or chase.

Confirm appliance sizes before the layout is final

Cabinet openings are built to the appliance specification sheet, so choose the models before anything is ordered.

Decide whether any wall will be removed

Removing a load bearing wall needs a structural engineer and a beam, which changes the budget, the permit and the schedule.

Plan at least 15 inches of counter landing space beside the range

Most codes require a landing area next to a cooking surface so hot pans have somewhere to go.

Set the distances between sink, range and refrigerator

Keep each leg of the work triangle between 4 and 9 feet so two people can work without crossing paths.

Choose the sink, faucet and range hood before rough-in

Drain, supply and duct positions all depend on these models, so confirm them early even if delivery is later.

Set the budget with a contingency of 10 to 15 percent

Older kitchens hide failed plumbing, old wiring and water damage that only appear after demolition.

Agree the written scope and allowances with the contractor

List which materials the contractor supplies and which you supply, with a price allowance for every undecided item.

Confirm which permits the work needs

Most kitchen work needs plumbing and electrical permits, and moving walls or windows needs a building permit.

Submit the drawings to the building department

Get building or homeowners association approval

Buildings often restrict work hours, elevator use, and any change to shared plumbing risers.

Confirm the contractor license and insurance are current

Schedule the inspection sequence with the building department

Rough-in inspections have to pass before the walls are closed, so book them into the schedule now.

Post the permit on site and keep the approved drawings there

Shut off water, gas and power to the work area

Cap the lines and label every shutoff so nobody restores a service by accident.

Test for asbestos and lead before disturbing old finishes

Homes built before 1980 may have asbestos in floor tile and lead in paint, and both need trained removal.

Protect floors, doorways and adjacent rooms

Use dust barriers with zippers at doorways and cover any flooring that will remain.

Set up a temporary kitchen

Move the refrigerator, a microwave and a kettle to another room before the sink comes out.

Remove cabinets, countertops and appliances

Open walls only where the scope requires

Inspect the exposed framing for rot, water damage and old wiring

Price any repair found here as a change before the trades start their rough-in.

Set the sink drain and supply locations from the cabinet drawings

Confirm the drain slope

Horizontal drain lines need a fall of about one quarter inch per foot toward the stack.

Install the vent for the sink drain

Every trap needs a vent, and an island sink usually needs a loop vent or an air admittance valve where local code allows one.

Run the refrigerator water line with its own shutoff valve

Place the valve where it can be reached without pulling the refrigerator out.

Rough in the dishwasher supply, drain and air gap

Add a shutoff valve for every fixture

Pressure test the new lines before the walls close

A leak found under pressure now costs nothing compared with one found behind finished tile.

Book and pass the plumbing rough-in inspection

Plan the small appliance circuits

Kitchen counter receptacles normally need at least two dedicated 20 amp circuits.

Provide GFCI protection for receptacles within 6 feet of the sink

Most codes now require GFCI protection on all kitchen counter receptacles, and always on those near water.

Space counter receptacles so no point is more than 24 inches from one

Measured along the counter, this usually means a receptacle every 4 feet.

Run dedicated circuits for the range, oven, dishwasher, disposal and microwave

Rough in the range hood circuit and its duct in the same trip

Plan lighting in layers

Include ceiling lights, under cabinet task lighting, and a separately switched circuit for island pendants.

Set switch and receptacle heights against the finished backsplash

Mark the finished counter and backsplash heights on the studs so no outlet lands on a tile edge.

Label the panel, then book and pass the electrical rough-in inspection

Insulate exterior walls and air seal every penetration

Photograph every open wall before drywall

Take pictures showing pipe and wire locations and keep them with the project records.

Add blocking for wall cabinets, shelves and the range hood

Screwing into blocking rather than drywall anchors is what keeps loaded upper cabinets on the wall.

Install a water resistant panel behind the sink wall

Hang, tape and sand the drywall

Check walls for plumb and corners for square before cabinet layout

Out of square corners change the filler sizes, and it is cheaper to know before the cabinets arrive.

Prime and paint the ceiling and walls before cabinets go in

Check the subfloor for level and stiffness

Tile needs a flat and stiff subfloor, so correct dips and add support before setting anything.

Decide whether the flooring runs under the cabinets

Running the floor through simplifies future changes, and stopping at the cabinets saves material.

Confirm the finished floor height at every doorway and transition

Install the underlayment or membrane the flooring manufacturer specifies

Set the flooring and allow the full cure time before loading it

Cabinets and appliances rolled over uncured tile break the bond and crack grout later.

Protect the finished floor during cabinet and appliance installation

Install thresholds and base moulding

Check the cabinet delivery against the order list

Inspect every box for damage and correct size on the day it arrives, while a claim is still simple.

Find the high point of the floor and set a level layout line

Install the wall cabinets before the base cabinets

Set the base cabinets level and shim them to the layout line

Confirm the counter height and overhang

A standard counter is about 36 inches high with a 1 inch overhang past the cabinet face.

Template the countertop only after the base cabinets are fixed

Stone fabricators measure the installed cabinets, not the drawings, so nothing can move afterwards.

Confirm the sink and cooktop cutouts on the template

Check the cutout positions and the faucet hole count against the actual fixtures before the stone is cut.

Install the countertop, then seal the stone if the material needs it

Fit the backsplash after the countertop is in place

Confirm the range hood airflow

Size the hood to the cooking surface, commonly about 100 CFM per linear foot for a wall hood and more for an island hood.

Vent the hood to the outside with rigid duct

Rigid metal duct with few bends keeps the rated airflow, and flexible duct reduces it.

Provide make-up air where the hood exceeds 400 CFM

A large hood can depressurize a tight house, and many codes require a make-up air supply above this level.

Install the sink, faucet and disposal and check for leaks

Connect the dishwasher with a high loop or an air gap

Install the range, oven and refrigerator and check clearances to the cabinets

Run every appliance through a full cycle

Test the oven at temperature, the dishwasher on a full wash, and the ice maker after a day.

Register the warranties and file the manuals with the project

Walk the kitchen with the contractor and write one shared punch list

Open and close every door and drawer

Check alignment, soft close operation, and that nothing rubs the neighboring door.

Test every outlet, switch and light, including the GFCI test buttons

Check under the sink and around the dishwasher for leaks after a full cycle

Check caulk, grout and paint touch ups in daylight

Defects that hide under work lights are obvious in the morning, so look at the room twice.

Confirm all inspections passed and collect the final sign off

Collect lien releases, warranties and the final invoice

Agree a completion date for every punch list item before the final payment

The remaining payment is the only leverage left once the crew has moved to the next job.